Traditional Medicine in Bhutan

Living abroad tends to take one out of their comfort zone in a multitude of ways. During my time in Bhutan, eating has been one of those things which has been simultaneously both immensely rewarding and challenging. I left behind many of the nourishing comforts of home (no more quinoa, sourdough barley bread or organic almond butter) and wholeheartedly dove into the culinary wonders of Bhutanese food. All was well until a couple of weeks ago when my digestive system let me know, in no uncertain terms, that it was unhappy. Perhaps it was all of the chilies (I admit it, I am now totally addicted) or the abundance of dairy products (a main staple in Bhutanese cuisine which doesn't always 'agree' with me), or maybe it was some type of microorganism wreaking havoc on my insides. Whatever it was, balance had to be restored and I needed something stronger than the probiotic supplements which I had brought with me from Canada.

As a temporary resident here in Bhutan I am fortunate to have access to free healthcare. There are two distinct streams of medicine present in the country, the modern allopathic system and the traditional model; Bhutanese citizens are free to choose between the two as they see fit, and will often utilize both to fulfill their healthcare needs. Given my personal interest in traditional medicine and holistic approaches to wellness, I took the opportunity to visit the National Traditional Medicine Hospital to seek help for my digestive distress. The hospital is part of the large Institute of Traditional Medicine that also includes a medical school which trains doctors in traditional medical services, and a facility which is dedicated to researching and producing traditional medicines which are distributed to health centers across the country. Bhutan has been historically referred to as Lho Men Jong (Land of Medicinal Plants), a name bestowed by it's Tibetan neighbours as a reflection of the countries abundant flora, long a source of a myriad of plant medicines.

The history of indigenous medicine in Bhutan is inseparable from the nations spiritual heritage, and the traditional approach to healthcare is deeply and intrinsically linked to Buddhist cosmology. TSo-ba Rig-pa ("science of healing") has it's roots in Tibet where a medical system took shape in the 8th century influenced by the arrival of the Buddha's teachings. According to Buddhist tradition, upon attaining enlightenment the Buddha also implicitly realized and mastered the art of healing; the insight he gained into the nature of suffering and illness, and liberation from it, form the foundation of the Buddhist approach to healthcare. According to Dr. Tandi Dorji in the book The Medical History of Bhutan: "The core Buddhist teachings form the basis of Buddhist medical doctrines that influence traditional medical practice not only in Bhutan and Tibet, but throughout the region where Buddhism has a major influence." (It is no surprise then that Buddhist lamas have long been considered the countries primary practitioners of healing, and that monasteries have traditionally been repositories of medical knowledge.) In addition, other great systems of established medical thought inspired Tibetan and Bhutanese medicine in it's formative years; the Ayurvedic tradition of India provided much of the theoretical basis, and Chinese sources are said to have played an integral role as well.

 

Traditional approaches formed the foundation of localized healthcare within the country until the early 1950's with the establishment of a nationalized medical system, centered on the western allopathic model which had been steadily gaining popularity in Bhutan since it's arrival in the earlier part of the century. In 1967 the government acknowledged the scientific & cultural importance of traditional medicine within Bhutan and officially made it a part of the universally accessible national healthcare system, giving people the choice of both allopathic and traditional options. Talk about complementary healthcare!

Bhutanese traditional medicine is multi-layered and complex, and I have only just begun to scratch the surface in understanding it's philosophy and application. What I do know is that the three tools of diagnosis (visual - such as looking at the tongue, touch - listening to the pulse, and interrogation - asking lots of questions) are used to identify areas of disharmony within the three humours (air, bile and phlegm). Areas of imbalance are then addressed via the four pillars of treatment...food/diet, behaviour, medication (made of materials such as medicinal plants, minerals and even a few animal parts) and therapeutic approaches (such as herbal steam baths, cupping and gold needle acupuncture).

On the morning that I visited the hospital (a day clinic really), I was impressed to find it filled with people of all ages patiently awaiting appointments. When it was finally my turn, I was admitted to see a doctor who proceeded to ask me a plethora of questions regarding my current symptoms as well as my health history. After checking my tongue and listening to my pulse for quite some time, I was then sent to the dispensary to receive the series of medicines I was advised to take for the next week. 

 

 

As I walked home from this hospital I was reminded of a conversation which I had with a Bhutanese woman early on in my time here. She was explaining to me (in simple terms) the role that different Buddhas and Bodhisattvas play within the Bhutanese Buddhist universe, and how each is sought in prayer in different situations based on the specific attributes and energies which they embody. According to the The Medical History of Bhutan, "Medicine Buddha (Sangay Menlha) embodies healing and is worshipped to cure all ailments that affect mankind. He is recognized as the Buddha doctor, or Bodhisattva physician of vitality. He is an enlightened being who protects living beings from physical illness, mental illness, dangers and obstacles."  It was explained to me by my Bhutanese friend the importance of saying a prayer to Sangay Menlha prior to taking medicines, as it is the Medicine Buddha which will bring relief from suffering, not the medications themselves...the pills and powders are merely a channel through which the Buddha works.

Sangay Menlha ~ Medicine Buddha

I have been following this sage advice, keeping Sangay Menlha in mind as I partake of the healing medicines of Bhutan...sourced from her mountains and valleys, and swallowed down with her cool, soothing water. It has been nearly a week now and, whether it's the herbs or Medicine Buddha's intervention (or a combination of both), I am feeling much better...for this I am most grateful.

The Land of Gods and Goddesses

 
I have been extremely fortunate during my time in Bhutan to travel out of the 'big city' of Thimphu into it's outlying areas quite frequently. I have hiked up mountainsides and though valleys, driven across high mountain passes, visited many sacred and important sites such as Taksang monastery and Punakha Dzong and passed through numerous small towns and villages, catching a glimpse of Bhutanese life outside of the urban center. Recently I had the opportunity to travel further afield, out of the western region of the country with which I had become somewhat familiar and into the east. And what a wonderful journey it was!

The adventure began by traveling along the "Lateral Road", as the the main highway connecting east and west is known, from Thimphu to the town of Mongar in eastern Bhutan. For the record, I use the term 'highway' loosely. The roads here are all very similar...windy and narrow, with sheer drops of many hundreds (if not thousands) of feet. Not for the faint of heart, nor the queezy of stomach - there's a reason the local long distance buses are referred to as 'vomit comets'. Thankfully Kevin and I were in a car, and neither of us suffer from motion sickness :)

From Thimphu to Mongar was a very long ride indeed, taking two days with an overnight stop in a region known as Bumthang, but it was well worth it for the breathtaking scenery along the way. It amazed me the way in which the landscape changed as we ascended and descended mountains, the trees and plants varying according to the numerous micro-climates we passed through at different elevations. Dwarf bamboo, wild strawberries, countless species of conifers, a multitude of rhododendrons. The most dramatic by far was the change I saw after the Thrumshing La, the second highest mountain pass in Bhutan, which connects the central and eastern regions of the country. In a matter of hours we descend from elevations of approximately 12,500 ft down to less than 2,200 ft, transitioning from alpine forests into a semi-tropical valley dotted with banana, orange and mango trees.

Mongar is a beautiful spot, and quite unique in comparison to other towns I have visited in Bhutan. Whereas the villages in the western part of the country are all built in the depths of the valleys, Mongar, like most towns in the east, is built on the top of a mountain, positioning it's residents at eye level with the clouds and commanding magnificent views of the landscape below. I only had one afternoon and evening to enjoy wandering around this town, but I am so glad that I had the opportunity to experience it's charms!


Mongar Street Scene

The following morning I headed back to Bumthang, a district (or dzongkhag) consisting of the four neighbouring valleys of Chhume, Tang, Ura and Choekhor (a.k.a. Jakar); when most people say they are going to 'Bumthang', they are refering to Jakar valley/town, and this is exactly where I was headed.

Jakar Valley

Bumthang is known as the cultural and spiritual center of Bhutan, and it does indeed feel in many ways like the heart of the country. There are many important temples and monasteries which are nestled in these vallleys, particularly Jakar, and many significant events and personages that have roots here throughout Bhutan's fantastic past. Since arriving in Bhutan I have observed that history and mythology often intermingle, and nowhere has this been more evident to me than in Bumthang. The following quote (from the text 'Bumthang: Flower Garden of Celestial Beings' written by Kunkhyen Longchen Rabjam back in 1355), illustrates this nicely:

"A place where many renowned kings and ministers once lived

A place festooned with many awe-inspiring temples and monasteries

A place frequented by many spiritual masters and intellectuals of the past

You! Listen to the description of Bumthang, the land of gods and goddesses"

Guru Rinpoche

I was fortunate to be in Bumthang for a very special event, the birth anniversary of the great Guru Rinpoche, a celebration which spanned several days. Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava or "the Second Buddha", is an important historical and religious figure (who also possessed miraculous powers including the ability to subdue demons) credited with introducing Tantric, or Vajrayana, Buddhism to Tibet and later Bhutan. In honour of the great Guru's birthday, a religious festival called a tsechu was held at Kurjey temple in Bumthang, which I had the great privilege of attending. The whole community turned out for the tsechu, all wearing their best kiras and gohs and watching with rapt attention the ceremonial dance~plays that unfolded before us.

A scene from Paro tsechu (photo taken by Kevin earlier in the year...I didn't have a camera with me at the Bumthang tsechu but wanted to give you an idea of what the event looked like)

Another highlight of my time in Bumthang was visiting the Pema Choling nunnery, home to a community of approximately 180 nuns ranging in age from 7 to 73. The nunnery serves as a boarding school where young women receive both secular and spiritual education; we met several of the students and teachers while we were there and I was deeply touched by the way they welcomed my travelling companions and I into their home. After receiving a full tour of the space in which the nuns live and study (including the kitchen which was quite remarkable...imagine how big the pots must be to feed 180 hungry nuns!), we were invited to come back the next day to attend a puja (religious ceremony) in honour of Guru Rinpoche's birthday. So we made our way back the following afternoon, and I must say that the puja was one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. The cadence of the nuns voices reciting Buddhist texts in harmonious union, along with the sound of the drums and horns that accompany the ceremony, was enchanting...an experience I won't soon forget.

  

 

In addition to being the spiritual centre of Bhutan, Bumthang is also an agricultural heartland. It's gently sloping hills and wide valleys are often referred to as "the Switzerland of Bhutan", making it oh so fitting that the region is famous for it's European style cheeses, beer and fruit infused liquors, all a result of Swiss influence in the area. In addition to these relatively recent additions to the local food scene, Bumthang is also well known for it's buckwheat production, a traditional staple food primarily eaten in the form of pancakes and handmade noodles. I had a quintessentially Bumthang breakfast on my last morning in Jakar...buckwheat pancakes, local gouda cheese, homemade wild strawberry jam and honey collected from a hive in the neighbouring valley. Ohhhhhhh SO delicious!

On our return journey westward, my friends Angela, Imee, Mia and I spent a night in a traditional Bhutanese farmhouse in the stunning PhobjikaValley where we caught a glimpse of farm life, feasted on homestyle Bhutanese cuisine and took a morning hike through the magnificent valley before making our way back to the urban metropolis of Thimphu.

It was a wonderful journey indeed, one which took me to the heart of Bhutan in more ways than one. While I am aware that there is still so much more to see and experience, I feel that I now know this beautiful country more deeply and intimately than I did a few weeks ago...and for this I am most grateful.

Bhutanese Cuisine

The food of Bhutan has been famously referred to as "the world's worst cuisine"...a bold statement made by Ruth Reicl, editor of 'Gourmet' magazine. Based on my personal experience I can say with confidence that this statement is far from accurate. While the simplicity of Bhutanese fare may not receive much in the way of praise from the upper crust gourmands of the world, there is much to appreciate in this humble cuisine.

 

Rice is a main staple throughout the country, particularly in the west. It is very revealing that in Dzongkha (the national language of Bhutan) the word 'toh', meaning rice, also translates as food or meal. A meal just isn't considered complete around here without a large portion of rice! It is red rice that is cultivated in the country's high altitude valleys, and which has traditionally been considered an essential element of the Bhutanese diet. Increasingly, however, red rice is being substituted for white rice imported from India. On the downside, this has negative implications for both the local food system as well as the nutritional status of Bhutanese people, but on the upside I am quite sure it results in far fewer chipped and cracked teeth (the red rice I purchase at the local market requires a meticulous picking though to ensure that the majority of the small hidden rocks are removed prior to cooking...I am coming to understand the appeal of the packaged Indian rice enticingly labelled "Stone Free"!).

 

Buckwheat, wheat, barley, millet and corn are other staple grain foods, especially in the southern and Eastern reagions of Bhutan. Below you can see an abandoned stream-side mill (which Kevin and I happened upon during a recent rural excursion) that, at some point in the not too distant past, used stone wheels and water power for the grinding of grain.

Datshi is a common accompaniment to the ever present rice. Literally meaning 'cheese', datshi consists of vegetables (frequently potatoes 'kewa datchi', mushrooms 'shamu datshi' and/or chillies 'ema datshi') coated in a savoury cheese sauce...quite delicious! Dairy products play a pretty significant role in the diet, traditionally derived from yak, but more commonly these days sourced from cows. Some of you will be interested to know that the local dairy shops are lined with coolers filled with raw milk, buttermilk, cheese and yoghurt/curd.

Chugo is a popular type of homemade yak cheese (seen below being sold at the Paro farmer's market) which is dried, and sometimes smoked, as a means of preservation; small chunks of this cheese are then 'munched' on as a nourishing between meal snack. I have yet to try it, but I have been told that it's a somewhat strong and acquired taste. I have also been warned that it must be sucked on for a very long time to become softened before attempting to chew it as it is hard enough to break teeth in it's dried state!

As I mentioned in an earlier post, vegetables are often center stage on the Bhutanese table. The photo below was taken during a recent meal at the wonderful Folk Heritage Restaurant here in Thimpu, an establishment dedicated to serving organic, seasonal fare made using time tested traditional recipes. On this particular day we were treated to a feast of fresh asparagus, nakey (fiddleheads), beans, potatoes, cucumber salad and ema datshi...yum!

Fermented vegetables have also long been part of the Bhutanese diet. The cold winters and a short growing season in most of Bhutan has necessitated the use of various methods of preservation, fermentation and dehydration being widely used techniques. In local grocery stores I have found delicious pickles made of veggies such as radish, cabbage and bamboo shoots which are first fermented then soaked in oil & spices and used as a condiment. Gundruk is a name used for fermented leafy greens (from plants such as mustard and radish) which are first packed into earthenware jars to ferment and then sun-dried, after which they keep well for many months and are frequently used in soups. I have been experimenting with these at home...quite delicious! For fellow fermentation geeks out there, this book contains a wealth of information regarding the fermented foods of the Himalayas :)

Chillies, ema, feature prominently in Bhutanese cuisine. As Sonam Wangyal, the proprietor of the above mentioned Folk Heritage Restaurant, puts it...""We don't use chillies as a spice; we eat them like vegetables."  She's not kidding. I am continually amazed when I visit the vegetable market to see people buying them by the kilogram! Aside from the ever popular ema datshi, you will also find a pot of ezay (homemade chili sauce) served with every Bhutanese meal.

My favourite way to enjoy ezay is atop of momos, delicious steamed savoury dumplings filled most commonly with beef or (my favourite) cabbage and a little bit of fresh cheese. They are SO good. Everyone here has their own opinion regarding where to find the best momos in town, and I have been thoroughly my quest to come to my own conclusion on the subject!

Meat is commonly consumed by Bhutanese people, though the killing of animals is prohibited for the Buddhists that make up the majority of the population. A bit of a conundrum, yes? In my understanding, this is gotten around by importing meat from of India (most of the beef and dried fish on the market come in this way), as well as employing the non-Buddhist segment of the population to do the slaughtering of the chickens and pigs which are locally raised (approx. 30% of the population is ethnically Nepali, and are largely Hindu). Yak meat has also traditionally been a part of the Northern Bhutanese diet, a delicacy I have yet to taste for myself.

A Bhutanese meal is not complete without tea and/or ara to wash it all down. Ara is a home brewed 'firewater' fermented or distilled from whatever grain is locally available...typically rice, corn, millet or wheat. Suja, also known as 'butter tea', is a brew of black tea, milk and, yes, butter. It is rich, somewhat thick and salty...more akin to a savoury broth, in my opinion, than tea. My understanding is that cup after cup of this concoction has been a key factor in keeping the people of the Himalayas warm throughout the regions long, un(centrally)heated winters for many generations. I have tried it a couple of times, and have quite enjoyed it's potent flavour. Suja is also easily turned into a more filling snack by adding zow or seep, fried rice/corn crisps (think of hearty Rice Krispies/Corn Flakes) as seen below.

 

As much as I have been enjoying my exploration of Bhutanese cuisine, I am also grateful for the diversity of food choices available here in Thimphu. Many restaurants offer delicious Nepali and/or Indain dishes in addition to Bhutanese fare, and we are fortunate here in the cosmopolitan capitol of the country to have access to a selection of ethnically diverse eating establishments serving up tasty Japanese, Thai, Korean, Italian, 'American' and even Mexican options. Then there are the many creative, locally inspired meals we are preparing in our own small kitchen...

Needless to say, we are eating well :)

Contemplating Happiness...

Prior to my arrival in Bhutan last month, my perception of this place was limited to what I had heard about it in the media (very little) and from Kevin, who has been living here since the beginning of January. Speaking with others in North America of this tiny Himalayan nation would often be accompanied by a faint glimmer of recognition and comments such as "Oh yes...the happy place!" or "Bhutan...isn't that Shangri-La?"

This remote and relatively isolated Buddhist kingdom (the last remaining of it's kind) is best known on the world stage for introducing the concept of Gross National Happiness (GNH), an index used in Bhutan to set the parameters for, and measure the success of, development in the country - an alternative to the global standard of Gross Domestic Product (GDP) which has been garnering much international attention over the past several years. The term 'Gross National Happiness' was first used in the 1970's by the 4th King of Bhutan (Jigme Singye Wangchuk) who was questioning the then prevailing assumption that GDP alone could bring happiness and well-being to society.

The idea of GNH, however, has much deeper roots in the kingdom. The 1729 legal code, which dates back to the unification of Bhutan, declares that "If the government can not create happiness for it's people, there is no purpose for the government to exist." Coming from North America where the role of  government is more clearly tied to promoting economic growth and ensuring corporate interests than the personal happiness of the people it is representing, this strikes me as a profound statement indeed!

 So how does a nation define happiness, and how on earth can it be measured?

These are questions which there has been a concerted effort to answer over the past several years here in Bhutan (primarily through the creation of the comprehensive 'Gross National Happiness Index' by the folks at The Centre for Bhutan Studies).

On a national level, the following are defined as the 'Four Pillars' Of GNH:

• promotion of sustainable development 
•  preservation and promotion of cultural values 
• conservation of the natural environment
• establishment of good governance

Some good examples of these pillars being put into action include the governments vow to protect a significant portion of the nations forest cover, the fact that the country is already carbon neutral and Bhutan's recent commitment to making their agricultural sector 100% organic.

On an individual level, the following are the 9 domains which are evaluated in order to measure personal happiness...

• Psychological well-being: life satisfaction, positive/negative emotions and spirituality 
• Health: encompassing both physical and mental/psychological health - an individual is said to be well only if pain is absent from the body and sorrow is absent from the mind/heart 
• Education: highlighting the importance of a holistic approach to education that ensures Bhutanese citizens gain a deep foundation in traditional knowledge, common values and life skills. "In addition to studying reading, writing, math, science and technology, students are also encouraged to engage in creative learning and expression ", with a focus upon the task of creating good human beings. 
• Culture: encompassing the preservation of language, artisan skills and participation in Bhutanese socio-cultural events and customs (such as community festivals and ceremonies, as well as dress and etiquette)

• Time Use: looking at the balance between hours of paid work, unpaid work and leisure...also acknowledging the importance of sleep to ones physical and mental health 
• Good Governance: gauging the effectiveness and efficiency of government 
• Community Vitality: evaluating the strength of  'social capital', which is sustained through co-operative relationships...this includes social support, community relationships and family

• Ecological Diversity and Resilience: a reflection of the Constitution of Bhutan which states that every citizen shall "...contribute to the protection of the natural environment , conservation of the rich biodiversity of Bhutan and prevention of all ecological degradation including noise, visual and physical pollution..." 
• Living Standards: looking at household income level, as well as access to assets such as land and adequate housing

Now the reality on the ground here in Bhutan is that in many ways it is a place like any other, and it's people are not necessarily any happier than anywhere else in the world. There are challenges all over the place that fly in the face of the ideals of GNH. Half the vegetables at the weekend market are imported from India and grown under questionable conditions, exhaust fumes from an ever increasing number of cars pollute Thimphu's air, there is a growing migration happening from rural villages into urban environments (and accompanying this move comes a disconnect from the land which has supported the Bhutanese people for generations), and the presence of TV and the internet have introduced many (of the worst, in my opinion) elements of western/modern life...consumerism, Coca-Cola, lame pop music, drug use and an 'I'm too cool for school' attitude (amongst teenage boys in particular).

At the same time, Bhutan is truly unique and there is something very special about this place. There are elements of a magnificent traditional culture which are very much alive and well, and the Himalayan Buddhism present here is a rich and vibrant spiritual path shared by the majority of the population (the values of which have, in no small way, informed the creation of the GNH philosophy). There is a remarkable presence of pristine natural beauty, and the country is both still standing as the last remaining Himalayan kingdom as well as finding it's feet as a new democracy.

The concept of GNH has been garnering much attention from the rest of the world over the past few years, and I can understand why (as I am sure you can too!). The government and monarchy of Bhutan have not only acknowledged that the happiness and well-being of their people are their primary concern, but they have also taken it upon themselves to bring the gift of this philosophy to the world at large. They are currently working in conjunction with the UN and an international 'expert working group' to create a universally applicable New Development Paradigm based on GNH principles.

While I think that it is extremely admirable that the Bhutanese leadership supports "...the pursuit of happiness and well-being as a fundamental human goal" and is encouraging other governing bodies to do the same, the more I learn about the philosophy of GNH the more it strikes me how important it is that each of us as individuals acknowledge this for ourselves, personally.

It is easy when living in the midst of fast paced, big city North America life to sometimes lose perspective on whether we are truly happy and feeling well, or not. Sometimes it can feel like asking "Am I happy?" is a frivolous consideration in the face of one's job, mortgage/rent, car payments and multitude of other commitments.

Am I in pain? Am I getting enough sleep? Am I part of a community and engaged in nurturing relationships? Do I feel nourished? What are my spiritual needs, and are they being met? Am I working too much and playing too little? Very important questions indeed...

How would our life priorities change if we valued happiness (for ourselves and others) in the way that GNH proposes? Some food for thought, relevant for all of us...no matter where we live.

Thank you, Bhutan, for inspiring the questions :)

PS...for anyone who's interested, check out the first part of this video; it's an interview with David Suzuki, one of the members of the 'international expert working group', in Bhutan.

Grocery Shopping in Thimpu

I don't know about the rest of you, but one of the first things I am inspired to do when getting to know a new neighbourhood, city or country is figure out where the good food is at :)

I am fortunate that Kevin has lived here in Thimphu for several months now, so he's done a lot of the leg work already and has been showing me around to his favourite markets and restaurants. Vegetables are a main focus of Bhutanese food and are, in one form or another, the centerpiece of most meals. Now that I have been here a little while, and seen the abundance of beautiful veggies growing in rural and urban areas alike, I can see why! We have a great little kitchen in our apartment so it's been fun experimenting with local produce and simultaneously attuning to my new environment by eating a delicious array of fresh, seasonal, locally grown foods.

Grocery shopping in Thimphu is a bit of an adventure, as well as somewhat of a treasure hunt. Our (and most every Thimphu residents) primary go-to source for the above mentioned fresh produce is the fabulous weekend farmer's market which takes place from Friday to Sunday each week, year round. As some of you may already know, Bhutan has recently announced plans to become 100% organic in it's agricultural practices, a reflection of the country's focus on sustainability and environmental stewardship in it's approach to development. The reality at the farmer's market, however, is that half of the produce being sold there is imported from Bhutan's southern neighbour India. I have learned that the key is sticking to the top floor of the market which is fully dedicated to locally grown/produced foodstuffs.

Farmers from nearby valleys travel in each week to share the fruits of their labour, both cultivated and wild-harvested, including vegetables, fruits, herbs (culinary and medicinal), honey, grains (red rice, barley and buckwheat are the primary local cereal crops), legumes, eggs, dairy products and meats. 

As the weather is warming up, the veggie main staples of cabbage and potatoes are giving way to a more diverse array of produce...the seasonal highlights at the moment are asparagus, wild fiddleheads & mushrooms, mint, cilantro, spring onions, a variety of leafy greens...and on the fruit front we have been enjoying the first peaches of the year from the neighbouring (sub-tropical) Punakha valley, as well as the tasty (and tart!) tiny red plums seen below.

The concept of the 'one stop shop' grocery store as we know it in North America is still relatively unknown here in Bhutan. Aside from the weekend farmer's market, there are many neighbourhood shops that exclusively sell meat, dairy products or produce, such as these underground vegetable markets which line a Thimphu side street known as, for some reason unbeknownst to me, "Hong Kong Market".

On occasion you can also find vendors set up on random street corners selling their fresh wares...

There are also a large number of shops selling (the increasingly popular) imported food products, shipped in primarily from India and Thailand, and it is these markets that Kevin & I visit for our supplemental luxury items such as rice noodles, coconut milk, unrefined cane sugar and certain spices (though there are a few fabulous locally grown/produced spice options available from this wonderful company). Being here has certainly heightened my awareness of what a wide range of foods we have access to in North America, where it is not uncommon to fill one's grocery cart with products and produce from around the world, or eat the cuisine of a different culture each night of the week. Living in Bhutan has really brought the concept of 'eating/buying local' to a new level of reality for me! 

There are definitely certain things that I am missing from 'back home' (such as quinoa, and my favourite sourdough barley bread from the European Breads bakery in East Van), but all in all I am enjoying the experience of shopping for and eating food here very much (big surprise there!) :)  I have connected with some really great people and experienced some really unique flavours along the way, and I look forward to discovering more of the culinary gems that I know are hidden away here in the winding streets of Thimphu...

First Impressions...

Greetings from the land of the Thunder Dragon!

I arrived in Bhutan almost exactly one week ago, and have been slowly settling in and making myself at home. It still feels somewhat surreal to finally be here!

The landing at the international airport in Paro was quite remarkable; imagine flying a large jet into a somewhat narrow valley surrounded by high alpine peaks. It felt like the wingtips were going to touch the terraced mountainside rice paddies that we were passing by...exhilarating indeed! The first thing I noticed when I stepped off of the plane (in addition to the stunning scenery) was the sweet fresh Himalayan air and the crystal clear blue sky. It was love at first sight.

On my first day in this wondrous country I had the opportunity to experience both it's rural charms as well as it's urban side. Kevin and I spent my first several hours here touring the picturesque and pastoral Paro valley, where I had the chance to visit the local dzong (a fortress complex, many of which can be found across the country, which serves as a community religious and administrative centre) and a historic Buddhist temple, as well as have my first taste of  Bhutanese cuisine (potatoes and chilies in cheese sauce...yum!).

 

 

We then drove over the mountains to neighbouring Thimpu valley...home sweet home. Along the way I saw many examples of traditional Bhutanese architecture, which is absolutely beautiful; the rammed earth, multi-story structures are truly works of (highly function) art that make use of indigenous materials and seamlessly blend into the landscape. I also caught glimpses of Himalayan rural agricultural life, unfolding today in much the same way as it has for countless years past.

As we entered the bustling 'metropolis' of Thimpu town, I was struck by how much more urban feeling it is than I had expected. I once heard of Thimpu described as an "oversized village", but this was not my own initial impression. In contrast to the rural areas we had just passed through, my new home felt very urban indeed with it's car dealerships, apartment buildings and traffic. Over the past week, however, Thimpu has been revealing it's many charms to me.

I have been
...wandering the town's quiet meandering side streets, admiring the abundant vegetable gardens that fill people's yards and various public spaces

...visiting the local lakangs (temples), appreciating the sacred space and the presence of elders walking round, spinning prayer wheels and reciting mantras

 

...shopping at the weekend vegetable market and savouring the flavours of local seasonal delicacies such as asparagus and strawberries (pictures to come soon!)

...meeting many super-cute Bhutanese children (who always have smiles to share)

...and hiking along riverbanks and up nearby mountainsides, soaking up the breathtaking natural beauty along the way

 

 

 

 

 

 

I feel incredibly blessed to be here...

 

More to come soon!