Contemplating Happiness...

Prior to my arrival in Bhutan last month, my perception of this place was limited to what I had heard about it in the media (very little) and from Kevin, who has been living here since the beginning of January. Speaking with others in North America of this tiny Himalayan nation would often be accompanied by a faint glimmer of recognition and comments such as "Oh yes...the happy place!" or "Bhutan...isn't that Shangri-La?"

This remote and relatively isolated Buddhist kingdom (the last remaining of it's kind) is best known on the world stage for introducing the concept of Gross National Happiness (GNH), an index used in Bhutan to set the parameters for, and measure the success of, development in the country - an alternative to the global standard of Gross Domestic Product (GDP) which has been garnering much international attention over the past several years. The term 'Gross National Happiness' was first used in the 1970's by the 4th King of Bhutan (Jigme Singye Wangchuk) who was questioning the then prevailing assumption that GDP alone could bring happiness and well-being to society.

The idea of GNH, however, has much deeper roots in the kingdom. The 1729 legal code, which dates back to the unification of Bhutan, declares that "If the government can not create happiness for it's people, there is no purpose for the government to exist." Coming from North America where the role of  government is more clearly tied to promoting economic growth and ensuring corporate interests than the personal happiness of the people it is representing, this strikes me as a profound statement indeed!

 So how does a nation define happiness, and how on earth can it be measured?

These are questions which there has been a concerted effort to answer over the past several years here in Bhutan (primarily through the creation of the comprehensive 'Gross National Happiness Index' by the folks at The Centre for Bhutan Studies).

On a national level, the following are defined as the 'Four Pillars' Of GNH:

• promotion of sustainable development 
•  preservation and promotion of cultural values 
• conservation of the natural environment
• establishment of good governance

Some good examples of these pillars being put into action include the governments vow to protect a significant portion of the nations forest cover, the fact that the country is already carbon neutral and Bhutan's recent commitment to making their agricultural sector 100% organic.

On an individual level, the following are the 9 domains which are evaluated in order to measure personal happiness...

• Psychological well-being: life satisfaction, positive/negative emotions and spirituality 
• Health: encompassing both physical and mental/psychological health - an individual is said to be well only if pain is absent from the body and sorrow is absent from the mind/heart 
• Education: highlighting the importance of a holistic approach to education that ensures Bhutanese citizens gain a deep foundation in traditional knowledge, common values and life skills. "In addition to studying reading, writing, math, science and technology, students are also encouraged to engage in creative learning and expression ", with a focus upon the task of creating good human beings. 
• Culture: encompassing the preservation of language, artisan skills and participation in Bhutanese socio-cultural events and customs (such as community festivals and ceremonies, as well as dress and etiquette)

• Time Use: looking at the balance between hours of paid work, unpaid work and leisure...also acknowledging the importance of sleep to ones physical and mental health 
• Good Governance: gauging the effectiveness and efficiency of government 
• Community Vitality: evaluating the strength of  'social capital', which is sustained through co-operative relationships...this includes social support, community relationships and family

• Ecological Diversity and Resilience: a reflection of the Constitution of Bhutan which states that every citizen shall "...contribute to the protection of the natural environment , conservation of the rich biodiversity of Bhutan and prevention of all ecological degradation including noise, visual and physical pollution..." 
• Living Standards: looking at household income level, as well as access to assets such as land and adequate housing

Now the reality on the ground here in Bhutan is that in many ways it is a place like any other, and it's people are not necessarily any happier than anywhere else in the world. There are challenges all over the place that fly in the face of the ideals of GNH. Half the vegetables at the weekend market are imported from India and grown under questionable conditions, exhaust fumes from an ever increasing number of cars pollute Thimphu's air, there is a growing migration happening from rural villages into urban environments (and accompanying this move comes a disconnect from the land which has supported the Bhutanese people for generations), and the presence of TV and the internet have introduced many (of the worst, in my opinion) elements of western/modern life...consumerism, Coca-Cola, lame pop music, drug use and an 'I'm too cool for school' attitude (amongst teenage boys in particular).

At the same time, Bhutan is truly unique and there is something very special about this place. There are elements of a magnificent traditional culture which are very much alive and well, and the Himalayan Buddhism present here is a rich and vibrant spiritual path shared by the majority of the population (the values of which have, in no small way, informed the creation of the GNH philosophy). There is a remarkable presence of pristine natural beauty, and the country is both still standing as the last remaining Himalayan kingdom as well as finding it's feet as a new democracy.

The concept of GNH has been garnering much attention from the rest of the world over the past few years, and I can understand why (as I am sure you can too!). The government and monarchy of Bhutan have not only acknowledged that the happiness and well-being of their people are their primary concern, but they have also taken it upon themselves to bring the gift of this philosophy to the world at large. They are currently working in conjunction with the UN and an international 'expert working group' to create a universally applicable New Development Paradigm based on GNH principles.

While I think that it is extremely admirable that the Bhutanese leadership supports "...the pursuit of happiness and well-being as a fundamental human goal" and is encouraging other governing bodies to do the same, the more I learn about the philosophy of GNH the more it strikes me how important it is that each of us as individuals acknowledge this for ourselves, personally.

It is easy when living in the midst of fast paced, big city North America life to sometimes lose perspective on whether we are truly happy and feeling well, or not. Sometimes it can feel like asking "Am I happy?" is a frivolous consideration in the face of one's job, mortgage/rent, car payments and multitude of other commitments.

Am I in pain? Am I getting enough sleep? Am I part of a community and engaged in nurturing relationships? Do I feel nourished? What are my spiritual needs, and are they being met? Am I working too much and playing too little? Very important questions indeed...

How would our life priorities change if we valued happiness (for ourselves and others) in the way that GNH proposes? Some food for thought, relevant for all of us...no matter where we live.

Thank you, Bhutan, for inspiring the questions :)

PS...for anyone who's interested, check out the first part of this video; it's an interview with David Suzuki, one of the members of the 'international expert working group', in Bhutan.