Traditional Medicine in Bhutan

Living abroad tends to take one out of their comfort zone in a multitude of ways. During my time in Bhutan, eating has been one of those things which has been simultaneously both immensely rewarding and challenging. I left behind many of the nourishing comforts of home (no more quinoa, sourdough barley bread or organic almond butter) and wholeheartedly dove into the culinary wonders of Bhutanese food. All was well until a couple of weeks ago when my digestive system let me know, in no uncertain terms, that it was unhappy. Perhaps it was all of the chilies (I admit it, I am now totally addicted) or the abundance of dairy products (a main staple in Bhutanese cuisine which doesn't always 'agree' with me), or maybe it was some type of microorganism wreaking havoc on my insides. Whatever it was, balance had to be restored and I needed something stronger than the probiotic supplements which I had brought with me from Canada.

As a temporary resident here in Bhutan I am fortunate to have access to free healthcare. There are two distinct streams of medicine present in the country, the modern allopathic system and the traditional model; Bhutanese citizens are free to choose between the two as they see fit, and will often utilize both to fulfill their healthcare needs. Given my personal interest in traditional medicine and holistic approaches to wellness, I took the opportunity to visit the National Traditional Medicine Hospital to seek help for my digestive distress. The hospital is part of the large Institute of Traditional Medicine that also includes a medical school which trains doctors in traditional medical services, and a facility which is dedicated to researching and producing traditional medicines which are distributed to health centers across the country. Bhutan has been historically referred to as Lho Men Jong (Land of Medicinal Plants), a name bestowed by it's Tibetan neighbours as a reflection of the countries abundant flora, long a source of a myriad of plant medicines.

The history of indigenous medicine in Bhutan is inseparable from the nations spiritual heritage, and the traditional approach to healthcare is deeply and intrinsically linked to Buddhist cosmology. TSo-ba Rig-pa ("science of healing") has it's roots in Tibet where a medical system took shape in the 8th century influenced by the arrival of the Buddha's teachings. According to Buddhist tradition, upon attaining enlightenment the Buddha also implicitly realized and mastered the art of healing; the insight he gained into the nature of suffering and illness, and liberation from it, form the foundation of the Buddhist approach to healthcare. According to Dr. Tandi Dorji in the book The Medical History of Bhutan: "The core Buddhist teachings form the basis of Buddhist medical doctrines that influence traditional medical practice not only in Bhutan and Tibet, but throughout the region where Buddhism has a major influence." (It is no surprise then that Buddhist lamas have long been considered the countries primary practitioners of healing, and that monasteries have traditionally been repositories of medical knowledge.) In addition, other great systems of established medical thought inspired Tibetan and Bhutanese medicine in it's formative years; the Ayurvedic tradition of India provided much of the theoretical basis, and Chinese sources are said to have played an integral role as well.

 

Traditional approaches formed the foundation of localized healthcare within the country until the early 1950's with the establishment of a nationalized medical system, centered on the western allopathic model which had been steadily gaining popularity in Bhutan since it's arrival in the earlier part of the century. In 1967 the government acknowledged the scientific & cultural importance of traditional medicine within Bhutan and officially made it a part of the universally accessible national healthcare system, giving people the choice of both allopathic and traditional options. Talk about complementary healthcare!

Bhutanese traditional medicine is multi-layered and complex, and I have only just begun to scratch the surface in understanding it's philosophy and application. What I do know is that the three tools of diagnosis (visual - such as looking at the tongue, touch - listening to the pulse, and interrogation - asking lots of questions) are used to identify areas of disharmony within the three humours (air, bile and phlegm). Areas of imbalance are then addressed via the four pillars of treatment...food/diet, behaviour, medication (made of materials such as medicinal plants, minerals and even a few animal parts) and therapeutic approaches (such as herbal steam baths, cupping and gold needle acupuncture).

On the morning that I visited the hospital (a day clinic really), I was impressed to find it filled with people of all ages patiently awaiting appointments. When it was finally my turn, I was admitted to see a doctor who proceeded to ask me a plethora of questions regarding my current symptoms as well as my health history. After checking my tongue and listening to my pulse for quite some time, I was then sent to the dispensary to receive the series of medicines I was advised to take for the next week. 

 

 

As I walked home from this hospital I was reminded of a conversation which I had with a Bhutanese woman early on in my time here. She was explaining to me (in simple terms) the role that different Buddhas and Bodhisattvas play within the Bhutanese Buddhist universe, and how each is sought in prayer in different situations based on the specific attributes and energies which they embody. According to the The Medical History of Bhutan, "Medicine Buddha (Sangay Menlha) embodies healing and is worshipped to cure all ailments that affect mankind. He is recognized as the Buddha doctor, or Bodhisattva physician of vitality. He is an enlightened being who protects living beings from physical illness, mental illness, dangers and obstacles."  It was explained to me by my Bhutanese friend the importance of saying a prayer to Sangay Menlha prior to taking medicines, as it is the Medicine Buddha which will bring relief from suffering, not the medications themselves...the pills and powders are merely a channel through which the Buddha works.

Sangay Menlha ~ Medicine Buddha

I have been following this sage advice, keeping Sangay Menlha in mind as I partake of the healing medicines of Bhutan...sourced from her mountains and valleys, and swallowed down with her cool, soothing water. It has been nearly a week now and, whether it's the herbs or Medicine Buddha's intervention (or a combination of both), I am feeling much better...for this I am most grateful.