Contemplating Happiness...

Prior to my arrival in Bhutan last month, my perception of this place was limited to what I had heard about it in the media (very little) and from Kevin, who has been living here since the beginning of January. Speaking with others in North America of this tiny Himalayan nation would often be accompanied by a faint glimmer of recognition and comments such as "Oh yes...the happy place!" or "Bhutan...isn't that Shangri-La?"

This remote and relatively isolated Buddhist kingdom (the last remaining of it's kind) is best known on the world stage for introducing the concept of Gross National Happiness (GNH), an index used in Bhutan to set the parameters for, and measure the success of, development in the country - an alternative to the global standard of Gross Domestic Product (GDP) which has been garnering much international attention over the past several years. The term 'Gross National Happiness' was first used in the 1970's by the 4th King of Bhutan (Jigme Singye Wangchuk) who was questioning the then prevailing assumption that GDP alone could bring happiness and well-being to society.

The idea of GNH, however, has much deeper roots in the kingdom. The 1729 legal code, which dates back to the unification of Bhutan, declares that "If the government can not create happiness for it's people, there is no purpose for the government to exist." Coming from North America where the role of  government is more clearly tied to promoting economic growth and ensuring corporate interests than the personal happiness of the people it is representing, this strikes me as a profound statement indeed!

 So how does a nation define happiness, and how on earth can it be measured?

These are questions which there has been a concerted effort to answer over the past several years here in Bhutan (primarily through the creation of the comprehensive 'Gross National Happiness Index' by the folks at The Centre for Bhutan Studies).

On a national level, the following are defined as the 'Four Pillars' Of GNH:

• promotion of sustainable development 
•  preservation and promotion of cultural values 
• conservation of the natural environment
• establishment of good governance

Some good examples of these pillars being put into action include the governments vow to protect a significant portion of the nations forest cover, the fact that the country is already carbon neutral and Bhutan's recent commitment to making their agricultural sector 100% organic.

On an individual level, the following are the 9 domains which are evaluated in order to measure personal happiness...

• Psychological well-being: life satisfaction, positive/negative emotions and spirituality 
• Health: encompassing both physical and mental/psychological health - an individual is said to be well only if pain is absent from the body and sorrow is absent from the mind/heart 
• Education: highlighting the importance of a holistic approach to education that ensures Bhutanese citizens gain a deep foundation in traditional knowledge, common values and life skills. "In addition to studying reading, writing, math, science and technology, students are also encouraged to engage in creative learning and expression ", with a focus upon the task of creating good human beings. 
• Culture: encompassing the preservation of language, artisan skills and participation in Bhutanese socio-cultural events and customs (such as community festivals and ceremonies, as well as dress and etiquette)

• Time Use: looking at the balance between hours of paid work, unpaid work and leisure...also acknowledging the importance of sleep to ones physical and mental health 
• Good Governance: gauging the effectiveness and efficiency of government 
• Community Vitality: evaluating the strength of  'social capital', which is sustained through co-operative relationships...this includes social support, community relationships and family

• Ecological Diversity and Resilience: a reflection of the Constitution of Bhutan which states that every citizen shall "...contribute to the protection of the natural environment , conservation of the rich biodiversity of Bhutan and prevention of all ecological degradation including noise, visual and physical pollution..." 
• Living Standards: looking at household income level, as well as access to assets such as land and adequate housing

Now the reality on the ground here in Bhutan is that in many ways it is a place like any other, and it's people are not necessarily any happier than anywhere else in the world. There are challenges all over the place that fly in the face of the ideals of GNH. Half the vegetables at the weekend market are imported from India and grown under questionable conditions, exhaust fumes from an ever increasing number of cars pollute Thimphu's air, there is a growing migration happening from rural villages into urban environments (and accompanying this move comes a disconnect from the land which has supported the Bhutanese people for generations), and the presence of TV and the internet have introduced many (of the worst, in my opinion) elements of western/modern life...consumerism, Coca-Cola, lame pop music, drug use and an 'I'm too cool for school' attitude (amongst teenage boys in particular).

At the same time, Bhutan is truly unique and there is something very special about this place. There are elements of a magnificent traditional culture which are very much alive and well, and the Himalayan Buddhism present here is a rich and vibrant spiritual path shared by the majority of the population (the values of which have, in no small way, informed the creation of the GNH philosophy). There is a remarkable presence of pristine natural beauty, and the country is both still standing as the last remaining Himalayan kingdom as well as finding it's feet as a new democracy.

The concept of GNH has been garnering much attention from the rest of the world over the past few years, and I can understand why (as I am sure you can too!). The government and monarchy of Bhutan have not only acknowledged that the happiness and well-being of their people are their primary concern, but they have also taken it upon themselves to bring the gift of this philosophy to the world at large. They are currently working in conjunction with the UN and an international 'expert working group' to create a universally applicable New Development Paradigm based on GNH principles.

While I think that it is extremely admirable that the Bhutanese leadership supports "...the pursuit of happiness and well-being as a fundamental human goal" and is encouraging other governing bodies to do the same, the more I learn about the philosophy of GNH the more it strikes me how important it is that each of us as individuals acknowledge this for ourselves, personally.

It is easy when living in the midst of fast paced, big city North America life to sometimes lose perspective on whether we are truly happy and feeling well, or not. Sometimes it can feel like asking "Am I happy?" is a frivolous consideration in the face of one's job, mortgage/rent, car payments and multitude of other commitments.

Am I in pain? Am I getting enough sleep? Am I part of a community and engaged in nurturing relationships? Do I feel nourished? What are my spiritual needs, and are they being met? Am I working too much and playing too little? Very important questions indeed...

How would our life priorities change if we valued happiness (for ourselves and others) in the way that GNH proposes? Some food for thought, relevant for all of us...no matter where we live.

Thank you, Bhutan, for inspiring the questions :)

PS...for anyone who's interested, check out the first part of this video; it's an interview with David Suzuki, one of the members of the 'international expert working group', in Bhutan.

Grocery Shopping in Thimpu

I don't know about the rest of you, but one of the first things I am inspired to do when getting to know a new neighbourhood, city or country is figure out where the good food is at :)

I am fortunate that Kevin has lived here in Thimphu for several months now, so he's done a lot of the leg work already and has been showing me around to his favourite markets and restaurants. Vegetables are a main focus of Bhutanese food and are, in one form or another, the centerpiece of most meals. Now that I have been here a little while, and seen the abundance of beautiful veggies growing in rural and urban areas alike, I can see why! We have a great little kitchen in our apartment so it's been fun experimenting with local produce and simultaneously attuning to my new environment by eating a delicious array of fresh, seasonal, locally grown foods.

Grocery shopping in Thimphu is a bit of an adventure, as well as somewhat of a treasure hunt. Our (and most every Thimphu residents) primary go-to source for the above mentioned fresh produce is the fabulous weekend farmer's market which takes place from Friday to Sunday each week, year round. As some of you may already know, Bhutan has recently announced plans to become 100% organic in it's agricultural practices, a reflection of the country's focus on sustainability and environmental stewardship in it's approach to development. The reality at the farmer's market, however, is that half of the produce being sold there is imported from Bhutan's southern neighbour India. I have learned that the key is sticking to the top floor of the market which is fully dedicated to locally grown/produced foodstuffs.

Farmers from nearby valleys travel in each week to share the fruits of their labour, both cultivated and wild-harvested, including vegetables, fruits, herbs (culinary and medicinal), honey, grains (red rice, barley and buckwheat are the primary local cereal crops), legumes, eggs, dairy products and meats. 

As the weather is warming up, the veggie main staples of cabbage and potatoes are giving way to a more diverse array of produce...the seasonal highlights at the moment are asparagus, wild fiddleheads & mushrooms, mint, cilantro, spring onions, a variety of leafy greens...and on the fruit front we have been enjoying the first peaches of the year from the neighbouring (sub-tropical) Punakha valley, as well as the tasty (and tart!) tiny red plums seen below.

The concept of the 'one stop shop' grocery store as we know it in North America is still relatively unknown here in Bhutan. Aside from the weekend farmer's market, there are many neighbourhood shops that exclusively sell meat, dairy products or produce, such as these underground vegetable markets which line a Thimphu side street known as, for some reason unbeknownst to me, "Hong Kong Market".

On occasion you can also find vendors set up on random street corners selling their fresh wares...

There are also a large number of shops selling (the increasingly popular) imported food products, shipped in primarily from India and Thailand, and it is these markets that Kevin & I visit for our supplemental luxury items such as rice noodles, coconut milk, unrefined cane sugar and certain spices (though there are a few fabulous locally grown/produced spice options available from this wonderful company). Being here has certainly heightened my awareness of what a wide range of foods we have access to in North America, where it is not uncommon to fill one's grocery cart with products and produce from around the world, or eat the cuisine of a different culture each night of the week. Living in Bhutan has really brought the concept of 'eating/buying local' to a new level of reality for me! 

There are definitely certain things that I am missing from 'back home' (such as quinoa, and my favourite sourdough barley bread from the European Breads bakery in East Van), but all in all I am enjoying the experience of shopping for and eating food here very much (big surprise there!) :)  I have connected with some really great people and experienced some really unique flavours along the way, and I look forward to discovering more of the culinary gems that I know are hidden away here in the winding streets of Thimphu...

First Impressions...

Greetings from the land of the Thunder Dragon!

I arrived in Bhutan almost exactly one week ago, and have been slowly settling in and making myself at home. It still feels somewhat surreal to finally be here!

The landing at the international airport in Paro was quite remarkable; imagine flying a large jet into a somewhat narrow valley surrounded by high alpine peaks. It felt like the wingtips were going to touch the terraced mountainside rice paddies that we were passing by...exhilarating indeed! The first thing I noticed when I stepped off of the plane (in addition to the stunning scenery) was the sweet fresh Himalayan air and the crystal clear blue sky. It was love at first sight.

On my first day in this wondrous country I had the opportunity to experience both it's rural charms as well as it's urban side. Kevin and I spent my first several hours here touring the picturesque and pastoral Paro valley, where I had the chance to visit the local dzong (a fortress complex, many of which can be found across the country, which serves as a community religious and administrative centre) and a historic Buddhist temple, as well as have my first taste of  Bhutanese cuisine (potatoes and chilies in cheese sauce...yum!).

 

 

We then drove over the mountains to neighbouring Thimpu valley...home sweet home. Along the way I saw many examples of traditional Bhutanese architecture, which is absolutely beautiful; the rammed earth, multi-story structures are truly works of (highly function) art that make use of indigenous materials and seamlessly blend into the landscape. I also caught glimpses of Himalayan rural agricultural life, unfolding today in much the same way as it has for countless years past.

As we entered the bustling 'metropolis' of Thimpu town, I was struck by how much more urban feeling it is than I had expected. I once heard of Thimpu described as an "oversized village", but this was not my own initial impression. In contrast to the rural areas we had just passed through, my new home felt very urban indeed with it's car dealerships, apartment buildings and traffic. Over the past week, however, Thimpu has been revealing it's many charms to me.

I have been
...wandering the town's quiet meandering side streets, admiring the abundant vegetable gardens that fill people's yards and various public spaces

...visiting the local lakangs (temples), appreciating the sacred space and the presence of elders walking round, spinning prayer wheels and reciting mantras

 

...shopping at the weekend vegetable market and savouring the flavours of local seasonal delicacies such as asparagus and strawberries (pictures to come soon!)

...meeting many super-cute Bhutanese children (who always have smiles to share)

...and hiking along riverbanks and up nearby mountainsides, soaking up the breathtaking natural beauty along the way

 

 

 

 

 

 

I feel incredibly blessed to be here...

 

More to come soon!